Keeping Goldfish

 (by Aquaria)
 

Comets

Most likely won at funfairs and used as feeders and need a lot of space - a long tank if you intend to keep them to maturity (12"+). Recommended 20gals per fish. These can be kept in outside ponds also as many people don't have the space for such fish or prefer to use their tanks for more fancy varieties or tropicals. (Same goes for Shubunkins)

Fantails, Veiltails, Orandas, Ryukin and other "fancies"

These fish require at least 10gals per fish as at adulthood they can become like grapefruits with fins - they don't need as much length for swimming, but some say that a they prefer a shallow tank, rather than a deep one.

Temperature

Although hardy, and able to withstand a temperature range of 55F to 76F it is recommended with "fancies" in a tank that they are kept at a constant temperature (this will also aid breeding) and ensure that the fish are not stressed - in the wild their habitats temperature will not vary by over 2 or 3C in a year compared to a difference of 5C per day in a tank. Fancies do not do as well at the lower end of the scale as "standard" goldfish.

Community

"Standard" and "fancies" should not be mixed as the faster swimming "standards" will harass the slower moving "fancies" - nor should they be mixed with tropical fish due to the incompatibility of foods - goldfish food is no good for tropicals and vice versa. Like with like is the way to go.

Water

"Goldfish can tolerate any water quality" I have seen that written so many times it makes my brain hurt. Goldfish are more tolerant to bad conditions than many fish but that doesn't mean you should expose them to it. Ensure that your tank is cycled before introducing the fish as ammonia damage to gills is permanent - have some live plants (goldfish are messy enough to keep them fertilized), although expect them to get munched on frequently and ensure that they are well planted, otherwise you will find them floating on the top of the tank each morning. These plants will help with biofiltration.

Goldfish enjoy a neutral pH in their water.

They are also somewhat brackish so add 1g of aquarium salt per liter of water (DO NOT USE TABLE SALT).

Maintenance

You should have the following test kits - Ammonia, nitrite, Nitrate.

When your tank is cycling (growing beneficial nitrifying bacteria that live on the gravel and filter medium) test daily for ammonia until you have a reading 0ppm, them test daily for nitrites until you have 0ppm - when you have this your tank is cycled and ready to accommodate fish.

Every other day you should vacuum the gravel to remove feces and uneaten food and remove any loose bits of plants.

Weekly water change (this is where the nitrate test kit comes in). Change up to 30% of the water weekly - the new water should have been left to stand overnight to allow it to achieve room temperature (never add water straight from the tap - allowing it to stand will dissipate chlorine that is deadly to fish).

If you choose to have aquarium salt in your tank don't forget to add the same concentration that is in the aquarium water to the new water BEFORE you put it in the tank.

Test the water that you remove from the tank for nitrates - anything under 30ppm is considered good, but the lower the better. If you have high nitrate content you will slowly poison your fish and they will keep getting ill.

High nitrates are combated by doing the following:

1 - increase maintenance, hoover daily instead of every other day (this is only if you have a small tank)

2 - decrease the amount you feed (see feeding to find out if you are feeding too much)

3 - increase the amount of water in a change (but no more than 30%) or increase the frequency

If you have high nitrates and no live plants your tank will be flush with algae.

Feeding

Goldfish are omnivorous - they eat both meat and vegetable material, like most humans. In the wild they would graze constantly all day so it is best to recreate these conditions, where possible, throughout the day.

A goldfish's stomach is about the same size as its eye, so only feed an "eyeful" of food per fish, per feeding.

Always buy good quality flake and crunch the larger flakes in your fingers until they are small enough for the fish to swallow in one and not have to "chew" (goldfish, like birds) can't chew but swallow whole.

Goldfish enjoy a varied diet so get some tubifex worms, daphnia or brine shrimp (they don't have to be live and are more convenient if they are not) and feed those as a "treat" - again, no more than an "eyeful" per fish.

You can also feed them such things as peas (shelled an skinned), ripe cucumber (without the skin) - there are many suggestions on other sites.

By feeding a variety of foods, your fish will be healthy and happy.

*live foods* unless you know that the live foods are disease free (i.e. you raised them yourself) I would avoid feeding them.

Fish pellets are a bit risky as they can swell up in the fish's stomach and cause floatation disorders - to avoid this soak the pellets first for about 5 min. in aquarium water.

If your fish does start having problems getting away from the surface shortly after feeding move it to a hospital tank and don't feed for three days, if there is still no change, feed some greens as it is usually constipation that causes it.

Breeding

If you want to breed your fish you must have a heater in your tank.

Firstly you have to have a breeding pair (male and female adults). You can sex them at adulthood by looking at their anal opening - a female's sticks out, while the male's does not.

After about six months of being kept in good condition at a constant temperature the fish will have fattened up for winter. By reducing the temperature by about two degrees the fish will be triggered to spawn - you may be successful, you may not.

Illness

Fish do not just "get ill".

There are two causes -

1 - your neglect, either your maintenance schedule is poor or you don't know what you're doing (this is not meant to be nasty, but a fact - I have fallen into this category, especially at the beginning and very recently (I though my tank had cycled and my fish nearly died).

2 - infection from new fish - if you get new fish, try and put them in a quarantine tank for two weeks. If this is impossible watch your fish for any signs of illness.

Signs of illness

Hiding, skittishness (darting about), not eating, losing scales/sores on body, fins peeling or becoming ragged, dull eyes - these are not symptoms of one disease, they are signs that something is wrong.

You should know what typical behavior of your fish is - an active fish that becomes lethargic, or a lethargic fish that becomes active could be the first sign of illness.

A good indication of a healthy goldfish is that the dorsal fin is erect, even when stationary.

If your fish start hiding, or their fins are down for an extended period of time, check the water quality and instigate an emergency maintenance program.

[ Back to Fish Specific Articles | Sections Index ]